Edinburgh

Edinburgh occupies one of the great urban settings in the world. The Castle sits on its basalt plug 130 metres above Princes Street, connected to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the far end of the Royal Mile by a kilometre of medieval closes, wynds, and tenements that have changed remarkably little since the sixteenth century. Behind the Castle, the Georgian New Town — planned with the rational optimism of the Scottish Enlightenment and executed in honey-coloured sandstone — contains one of the finest collections of neoclassical architecture in Europe. And behind all of it, Arthur's Seat rises 251 metres above the city: a volcanic hill that can be walked to the summit in an hour, with views that on a clear day extend to the Firth of Forth and the Highlands beyond.

The Old Town: A City Written in Stone

The Royal Mile running between Castle and Palace is the spine of Edinburgh's medieval city, but its real character lies in the closes — narrow alleyways diving off the main street into courtyards that once housed the entire social spectrum of the city, stacked in tenements twelve storeys high. Mary King's Close, preserved beneath the City Chambers since the eighteenth century, offers a genuinely extraordinary guided tour through rooms and passages that have remained sealed since the 1700s. Greyfriars Kirkyard, the cemetery adjacent to the Grassmarket, holds literary associations enough for a full afternoon: it inspired the villains of Harry Potter, holds the grave of Bobby the loyal Skye terrier, and contains the buried roots of the Scottish Covenanters' rebellion.

• Edinburgh Castle: The Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and the One O'Clock Gun — fired daily since 1861
• Palace of Holyroodhouse: The official Scottish residence of the monarch; the ruins of Holyrood Abbey in the grounds are among the most atmospheric in Scotland
• The Scotch Whisky Experience: Barrel rides, tasting rooms, and the world's largest collection of Scotch whisky — over 3,500 bottles

The New Town and Museum Mile

The Georgian New Town, begun in 1765 to the design of the 22-year-old James Craig, remains one of the most complete planned urban landscapes in existence. Charlotte Square is its masterpiece — the north side designed by Robert Adam and now housing the Georgian House museum. Princes Street Gardens, in the valley between Old and New Town, provide one of the finest urban views in the world: a sweep of lawns and flower beds backed by the Castle on its crag. The Scottish National Gallery at the foot of the Mound holds works by Raphael, Titian, Vermeer, and Constable alongside the definitive collection of Scottish painting.

Eating and Drinking

Edinburgh's food scene has advanced dramatically in the past decade. The city now holds a Michelin-starred restaurant in The Kitchin on Leith waterfront, where Tom Kitchin's "from nature to plate" philosophy has set the agenda for a generation of Scottish chefs. The Scran & Scallie in Stockbridge provides the accessible counterpart — exceptional Scottish produce cooked without ceremony, in a neighbourhood pub setting of genuine warmth. Leith, Edinburgh's port district, has become the city's most interesting food and drink neighbourhood: artisan coffee roasters, natural wine bars, and the Victorian splendour of the Malmaison hotel occupy former warehouse buildings along the Water of Leith.

• The Fringe: August — the world's largest arts festival; over 3,000 shows in 300 venues across three weeks
• Hogmanay: Edinburgh's New Year celebration is among the world's great street parties — requires advance planning and ticket booking
• Arthur's Seat: Sunrise from the summit on a clear morning is one of the great free experiences in British travel

Day Trips from Edinburgh

Edinburgh's position at the heart of central Scotland makes it an excellent base for excursions. The Forth Rail Bridge, one of the engineering wonders of the Victorian age, is visible from the city and walkable across on the adjacent road bridge. Rosslyn Chapel, made famous by Dan Brown but magnificent quite independently of any conspiracy, is thirty minutes south by bus. Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument are forty minutes west and mark the site of the battles that determined Scottish independence. For a full day, the Palace of Linlithgow — Mary Queen of Scots' birthplace — and the Falkirk Wheel, an extraordinary rotating boat lift, make a satisfying combination.